Saturday, April 12, 2014

malana

Malana - Tribal Paradise

- By Kanika
At an altitude of 3029 m the tribal village of Malana in the state of  Himachal Pradesh is a magical green rimmed village located overlooking the Deotiba and Chandrakhani Peaks. This little village of 1500 inhabitants is known as one of the oldest democracies in the world. It is also known by the drug mafia for its 'charas' which is extracted from the Cannibis plant and travels the world which is also the main source of income for the Malanese. The distinguishing factor of the culture of this village is they follow Jamdagni Rishi who is said to be one of 10 incarnations of Lord Vishnu. Shiva is said to have come before before him during his intense prayers. Jamdagni Rishi asked for a secluded place, full of nature's riches and lord Shiva told him to go to Malana. If you decide to visit this esoteric village it is adivisable to not touch the walls or belongings of any of the Malanese people as you will have to pay a fine for this. 'Kanashi', the local mountain language of Malana and does not sound like any of the dialects spoken in its neighboring villages and the language is also considered to be one of the secrets of the village that outsiders from other villages are not allowed to use. 
Malana Village from a distance
How to get there
By Road
Winding road route on the neighboring hills
Malana is connected to Kulu by three mountain passes. Once in the state of Himachal Pradesh it can be reached from Parvati valley across the Rashol Pass and Chanderkhani pass. I went from Jari which is two hours drive from Kulu by Taxi which will cost about INR 1700 and is situated at the confluence of the Malana and Manikaran. The easiest way to reach Malana is from Jari, which is a 23 km away. Jari is also an entry point to Malana. About 1.5 km from Jari is the Malana powerhouse and foreign visitors have to register their names before entering the valley for security and logistics. Everyone must trek the last 4kms uphill to reach Malana. The scenery shifts as you begin the ascent towards Malana after the taxi ride stop. You will be greeted by a valley which has more shades of green than you can imagine and a the river with a surface like a roaring storm. If you are lucky, it will drizzle and the whole view would have a veil of mist. Going further up, you lose sight of the river with a little bridge and are instead be fascinated by a view of about  200 stone roofed houses and inhabitants in the distance. As you are taking in this view and nearing Malana by the minute, if you look at steep uphill stone road ahead, you will find it lined with a myriad variety of wild flowers covering the side of the hill in huge numbers in colors of pink, cream, orange, white, blue and purple! If you are a nature photographer, it will be many hours before you actually finish the drive and walk before you enter Malana. 
4 km uphill trek with the Malanese village women carring wood.
Climate
The best time to visit Malana and witness the pleasing landscape, birch forests, rhododendron bushes and wild flowered valleys which offer awe-inspiring views is between March and October. The summers range between 8 and 20°Celsius and the cold snowy winter months the temperature can vary between -10 to 10°C. It is advisable to carry rain wear throughout the year during your visit.
 
Beautiful foliage in the month of June
Where to Stay
In this culturally sound village of 200 houses it is advisable to make friends with some of the villagers and stay with them in tiny home made guesthouses. The price will change according to  your relationship with them but an estimate of about 100 Rs a day to stay like many small villages in the mountains of Himachal are a clue. One can also use a tent and go camping around the village. There are no popular guesthouses as there is not much tourism around these areas due to its esoteric location.
 
Local villagers houses
Places of interest
Local  Malanese women walking along the path around Malana.
 
 
The Jamdagni Temple on the left
 
The Jamdagni Temple: The Malanese locals believe that all outsiders of the village are 'untouchable'. Nobody is allowed to touch the walls of the Jamdagni Temple. This sacred space is made of wood and stone and does not have any electricity like the modern temples of today. To preserve the sacredity and the architectural sound but aging walls the villgers have put a fine to any outsiders who are seen touching the locals or the walls of their space of prayer.
 
 
Sign outside the Jamdagni Temple
 
The Shrine of Renuka Devi – This monument is situated in lower Malana. The Shrine with its intricate woodwork is noteworthy for its architectural excellence. Horns of animals sacrificed in the temple complex are usually fixed on the facade of the temple with the bangles of the villagers signifying her feminity.
 
 
Walls of Renuka Devi Shrine
 
Treks around  Malana Village- Being less populated with fewer tourists than its twin valley towns all treks around Malana and its mountain ranges steep yet utterly breathtaking  and green in the summers and with too much snow in the winters. Through the day the subtle sound of the nearby gushing river is a soundscape to save in ones memory. One can always walk down 4 kms from the village to stand by the river.
 
 
View from the bridge near the river by Malana
 
Unique Housing – The houses of the villagers in Malana are of two or three storeys and each storey has a specific name and purpose. The lower floor is known as the 'khudang' which  serves as a cattle shed and where firewood and fodder for the sheep and goats is stored. The first floor called 'Gaying' is used to store eatables, wood and for weaving woolen fabric. The top floor with an over hanging balcony is called 'pati' where the Malanese live. Some special houses are built with alternating lines of stone and timber. While the inner walls are known to have mud the outer walls are wooden.
 
 
Unique house building style of the Malanese locals
Food
There are a very few food options in Malana. There are a handful of outdoor eating places or 'dhabas' where you can get chai and are run by the local women or men villagers from the houses nearby. The meals range from the most delicious dal and rice to mouth watering butter 'rotis' or Indian bread – Lentils and Rice are available in most cafes and they also serve vegetarian food while some villagers serve non - vegetarian food in the handful of guesthouses that exisit there. The best way is to befriend a local and eat a home cooked meal inside their house if you are ever  permitted!
  
A local woman standing near a cafe in Malana
Shopping
There is no shopping in Malana save for some 'charas',  if one likes to smoke hashish or Marijuana which can range anywhere from Rs 1000 to Rs 2000 for 10 grams.
  
Wild Marijuana Plant to be made into 'Charas' for Sale
Expenses
The expenses in Malana village are slim and the lifestyle is simple. However along with travel by  taxi around Himachal Pradesh I would recommend a budget of INR 6000 to 10,000  for one week.
  
Friendly but “untouchable” children of Malana Village.
 
Closure
I must admit that my experience with the culture and the locals of the village will be a trip to remember as will the pristine scenery surrounding it.
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